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Пристегиваться с нового года

Пристегиваться с нового года

Пристегиваться с нового года

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Если ты решил стать фрирайдером, то лучшего места чем французский курорт Шамони трудно найти. Он расположился в долине на 3,810 метров ниже самого высокого пика Западной Европы Мон Бланк. Шамони известен как колыбель альпинизма. Также в 1924 здесь прошли первые Зимние Олимпийские игры. Учитывая эти факты ты поймешь, что в этом месте ты найдешь команду придурков живущих по принципу катайся, как можно жестче с самых крутых склонов. Также не трудно представить, что когда альпинист и лыжница мирового уровня встретятся зимним темным вечером, то неизбежно займутся размножением. И как это часто бывает после рождения ребенка, он становится еще большим сорванцом чем их родители.

Филипп и Мишель Сиффреди 22 мая 1979 родили четвертого ребенка Марко. Марко с раннего детства жил в горах, располагавшихся в двух шагах от дома, и занимался экстремальным катанием на лыжах. Не таким экстремальным, как на X Games, а «упадешь - умрешь».

Марко, ребенку Шамони, не нужно было читать комиксы или смотреть фильмы, что бы найти себе героя для подражания. Ведь рядом с ним жили такие люди как Жан-Марк Бойвин уже совершивший свои скандальные спуски по запредельно крутым линиям спуска. Первый, кто сделал тоже самое в сноуборде был легендарный Бруно Гуви, заслуживший известность в 1986 году. Он прыгнул с вертолета на парашюте с 1000 метров на пик, похожий на плавник, почти вертикальную скалу Петит Дру. После этого две трети пути спустился по склону при помощи страховки, где пристегнулся и пульнул вниз по 250-метровому свисающему леднику с углом 50 градусов, под которым располагались 500 метров чистого Альпийского воздуха. Он закончил свой день, спланировав на параплане от конца ледника до Шамони.

Когда в 1990 Гуви погиб на Агюл Верте, два молодых гида из Шамони решили, что пришло их время захватить корону экстримального сноуборда. Жером Руби и Деде Рем выполнили первые спуски по самым сумасшедшим линиям, включая первый за всю историю лыж и сноуборда спуск по северному склону Агюл ду Триоле.

Марко, вдохновленный этими подвигами начал обкатывать самые крутые склоны долины. В мае 1996, спустя год после того, как научился кататься, Марко решил попробовать свои силы на северном склоне Агюл ду Миди – километровом спуске, усеянном скалами с углами близкими к 55 градусам. К концу сезона он вместе со своим другом Филиппе Форте совершили спуск по Шардонне (угол 55 градусов). Позже Филиппе погиб в лавине в Грандс Монте.

Большие горы

Марко постепенно проехал почти все самые сложные склоны и переключил свое внимание на более высокие горы. Перед тем как он поехал осенью 1998 на пик Толсллараю (6032м) в Перу вместе с Филиппе Форте и фотографом Рене Робертом, мама подарила ему крестик. Команда успешно спустилась с пика, и с этого момента крестик стал талисманом сопровождавшим его во всех приключениях.

В июне 1999 Марко вернулся в Шамони и стал первым сноубордистом, спустившимся с Нант Бланка. Нант Бланк – 1000 метровый спуск со средним углом 55 градусов, местами угол доходит до 60 градусов. До Марка этот склон проезжал Жан-Марк Бойвин в 1989. Хорошие условия на этом спуске большая редкость, о таких склонах любят поговорить серьезные парни, но лишь некоторые из них способны на такое. Во время этого спуска его снимал Рене Роберт, снимки получились сногсшибательными и даже те, кто считали Марко очередным сноуборд-панком, приняли его в ряды лучших экстримальных лыжников/сноубордистов.

Вслед за Нант Бланком Марко решил пойти выше. Осенью того же года он добавил в свою копилку первый спуск с Дорье Лакпа (6988 метров) в Непале. После этого спуска он обратил свой взор на два самых высоких пика в мире – Шишапангма и Эверест. По возвращении в Шамони, Марко связался с Расселом Брайсом из Himalayan Expeditions. Эта компания занималась организацией и проведением экспедиций на 8000-ники. Брайс посоветовал Марко для начала попробовать свои силы на других 8000-никах (8 из 14 находятся в Непале). Ведь не было известно, сможет ли его организм справиться с экстремальной высотой. Первым в их плане стоял Гималайский гигант Чо Ою. Но перед этим Марко приехал в Южную Америку чтобы спуститься с Хуайна Потоси, 6.088 метровой вершины в Боливии. Осенью Марко поднялся и спустился с шестого по высоте пика Земли – 8201-метрового Чо Ою. Успех этой операции доказал, что Марко готов к Эвересту.

Эверест – Часть 1

Весной 2001, Марко поехал вместе с Himalayan Expeditions на Эверест. Его на несколько дней опережал австриец Стефан Гатт, опытный райдер и альпинист также спустившийся с Чо Ою. Гатт шел без помощи шерпов и кислорода (что делало эту невероятную попытку еще сложнее). Перед райдерами стояла одна задача, между ними началась гонка – кто первый спустится на сноуборде с Эвереста.

Марко надеялся забраться и спуститься через кулуар Хорнбейн, но оказалось, что там мало снега. Тогда Марко решил реализовать запасной план – спуск через кулуар Нортона.

Марко взобрался на вершину 23 мая, на следующий день после своего 22-хлетия. Он стартовал и пронесся мимо изможденных альпинистов. Далеко уехать не получилось, крепление не выдержало экстремально низкой температуры, но к счастью один из шерпов сумел починить его. Марко продолжил спуск, и вошел в кулуар – 1800 метровый склон с углами от 40 до 45 градусов. Перед Северным Кулуаром он остановился на отдых, спустя час проехал оставшиеся 1000 метров и прибыл в базовый лагерь спустя всего 4 часа после начала спуска.

В Базовом Лагере его ждала команда со спутниковым телефоном наготове. За считанные минуты новость о спуске разнеслась по всему миру. Гатт обогнал Марко на 24 часа, но он спускался заключительные 100 метров пешком из-за слишком большого угла перед самым лагерем. Благодаря тому, что Марко проехал весь путь от пика до Базового Лагеря, именно его спуск стал первым непрерывным спуском на сноуборде с самой высокой горы в мире.

Никогда не говори “Последний спуск”

Следующей точкой в пути Марко к кулуару Хорнбейна расположенного на северном склоне Эвереста и его главной целью стал другой гигант Гималаев – Шишпангма. Он взобрался на Шишпангму – второй по высоте пик мира осенью 2001, но без сноуборда (из-за сильных ветров).

Марко вместе со своим другом шерпом Фурбой, Расселом Брайсом и шерпом Лоппасангом Тембой провели все следующее лето в Шамони. Они готовились ко второму походу на Эверест. Опасности, подстерегавшие их, трудности с организацией экспедиции и задержки оплат могли отвернуть любую команду, но Марко не думал сдаваться.

Четверг, 8 августа 2002

Марко уезжает из Шамони. Он забыл дома свой талисман. По прибытии в Катманду Марко встречается в отеле Тибет с Форбой, Па Нуру и Да Тензингом – тремя шерпами которые должны были помочь в восхождении на Эверест.

Суббота, 10 августа 2002

Команда покидает Катманду и направляется на север к Тибету. В качестве акклиматизации они проводят ночь в Кодари на границе Непала и Тибета, потом в Нйаламе, городе посреди нигде, являющегося приютом для альпинистов и туристов.
Команда совершает последние приготовления перед тем, как уехать в Тингри, последний остров цивилизации.

Среда, 14 августа 2002

Через неделю после уезда из Шамони Марко грузится в джип, который отвозит его в Базовый Лагерь (Base Camp), располагающийся на высоте 5000 метров. На следующее утро Шерпы устраивают пуя, буддиский ритуал с прошением богов о безопасной экспидиции. По завершении пуя разошлись облака и команда впервые с начала путешествия увидела Эверест. Марко изучил Северный Склон в телескоп и к своему счастью увидел, что склон забит снегом, причем на столько, что повсюду виднелись лавины из плит готовые вот-вот сойти. Кулуар Хорбейн выглядел проходным, но нужно было подождать еще какое-то время чтобы снег стабилизировался.

Команда несколько дней акклиматизируется в Базовом Лагере. Марко проводит разведку подножия Северной Седловины.

Вторник, 20 августа 2002

В базовый лагерь приходит табун яков, команда грузит на них свое снаряжение и поднимается до Верхнего Базового Лагеря (Advance Base Camp)

Четверг, 22 августа 2002

Команда прибывает в Верхний Базовый Лагерь, расположенный у подножия Северной Седловины. Предыдущее восхождение на Эверест Марко совершал весной, до начала сезона муссонов. В такое время обычно и совершаются восхождения. Но 99.99 процентов путешественников приезжают на Эверест не для того, чтобы кататься. В этот приезд сезон муссонов только закончился и Марко застал глубокий снег. По прибытии в Верхний Базовый Лагерь он с трудом узнал его, ведь во время предыдущего посещения лагерь был переполнен альпинистами, в этот раз народу было немного.

Пятница, 23 августа 2002

За ночь выпало тридцать сантиметров свежего снега. Во время обзора горы, Марко увидел, что весь Северный Склон покрыт свежим снегом. Он назвал его «фестивалем лавин». Погода в это время шаблонная – хорошая погода днем, а после обеда снег. Ежедневно по склону проносились лавины, а нижняя часть маршрута выглядела ледянистой.

Янн Гизенданнер, метеоролог, которому доверял Марко, вернулся в Шамони. Многие альпинисты добились успеха благодаря прогнозам Янна. Марко ежедневно связывается по спутниковому телефону с Янном и консультируется о погоде, кроме того он ежедневно звонит своей подруге Стефани, своей семье и друзьям. В лагере нет никого, кроме Марко и его команды, их одолевает скука. В конце путешествия на имя Марко пришел счет на 2000 долларов.

Через несколько дней шерпы начинают подготавливать страховку и заносят снаряжение в Лагерь 1. Они приближаются к Смертельной Зоне расположенной выше 8000 метров. Даже здесь, на высоте 6000 метров Марко постоянно приследуют головные боли. На такой высоте любые действия от обувания до попыток поесть и поспать довольно затруднительное занятие. И чем дальше тем,тем все становится сложнее.

Среда, 28 августа 2002

Команда совершает пробный выход к Северной Седловине и становится на холодную ночовку. Всю ночь буйствует шторм, весь следующий день погода плохая. Марко пристегивается и спускается до страховки, шерпы снимают его спуск на видео.

Суббота, 31 августа 2002

Марко и шерпы возвращаются к Северной Седловине и по снегу глубиной по пояс пытаются пробиться к Лагерю 2, расположенному на высоте 7500 метров.

Понедельник, 2 сентября 2002

Команда просыпается под падающим снегом. В надежде, что погода изменится, шерпы берут снаряжение и пытаются добраться до Лагеря 3. Чем выше они подымаются тем меньше снега, но на высоте 7700 метров погода портится еще сильнее и они возвращаются назад. Янн сообщает, что в ближайшее время погода должна улучшиться и Марко начинает прорабатывать восхождение. Он отправляет шерпов для подготовки базы в Лагерь 3 на высоте 8300 метров.

Среда, 4 сентября 2002

Янн сообщает, что надвигаются шторма, но в Воскресенье, 8 сентября должна быть хорошая погода. Марко решает совершить восхождение в воскресенье. Он не может сдержаться от радости и заявляет в камеру “Самая сложная часть почти закончилась. Но не слишком радуйся этому”.

Где-то ниже Оливер Бессон, гид из Мегаве (рядом с Шамони) торопится, чтобы догнать Марко. Форба предлагает Марко дождаться Оливера, у которого с собой отремонтированные радиостанции. Радио позволило бы поддерживать связь между Марко, спускающимися шерпами и низом. Но в горах, когда выпадает возможность необходимо ее реализовывать и Марко принимает решение - пришло время.

Пятница, 6 сентября 2002

Началось восхождение. Марко покидает Лагерь 2 и доходит до высоты 7900 метров, шерпы продолжают движение до высоты 8300, чтобы установить Верхний Лагерь. День выдался ясным и солнечным. Во время звонка домой на высоте почти 8000 метров Марко разделся до майки. Он сообщает друзьям, что во всю продвигается к вершине, а родителям сообщает, что он досих пор в Базовом Лагере. Марко не хотел, чтобы родители переживали о нем, и хотел рассказать все после успешного возвращения в Базовый Лагерь.

Суббота, 7 сентября 2002

Марко поднимается до Лагеря 3, и входит в Смертельную Зону. Выше 8000 метров тело перестает регенерировать и начинает постепенно умирать. Высота начинает действовать, и у Марко начинается недомогание. Он звонит Янну в Шамони и узнает, что в субботу ночью и в воскресенье его ожидают небольшая облачность с возможными снегопадами, но ниже 8000 метров. Также Янн советует Марко торопиться, потому что после обеда должен подняться ветер, а на следующий день погода испортится. "У тебя не много шансов".

"Окей, мерси, Адье, Янн."

"Ага, завтра поговорим, Марко. Позвони мне, когда спустишься."

"Хорошо, но адье, Янн. Адье."

Разговор может показаться обычным, но канадцы знают, что обычное «пока» между друзьями «о ревуа», а не адье. Адье используется только в тех случаях, когда друзья не надеятся больше увидеться. Янн испугался последнего звонка Марко. Ему показалось, что адье звучало не как Шамонийское «увидимся».

Во время следующего звонка батарейка в телефоне почти разрядилась. Марко звонил своему другу Бертранду Делапьерре. “Бертранд, я близок к Хорнбейну. Он рядом со мной. Снег великолепный. Я полон сил.” В противоположность Янну, Бертранду показалось, что Марко уверен в своих силах.

Вскоре после этого батарейка села. Марко и шерпы остались одни в одном из самых опасных мест мира.

Воскресенье, 8 сентября 2002

Команда начала восхождение в 1:30 ночи, шерпы сделали невозможное – пробили маршрут в снегу по грудь. В 14:10 через двенадцать с половиной часов пребывания в Зоне Смерти, команда достигла высоты 8848 метров, самой высокой точки Земли, пика Джомолугма. Восхождение заняло в три раза больше времени, чем в предыдущее. Этот подвиг в одиночку ветеран Гималаев Рассел Брайс назвал «запоминающимся достижением».

Первым забрался на вершину Фурба, когда Марко взошел, Фурба с улыбкой приветствовал его:

"Мы где?"

"На вершине, но уставшие" ответил ему Марко.

Фурба пустился в пляс. "Вершина! Вершина!"

"Устал. Устал. Слишком много снега. Слишком много альпинизма", сказал Марко, явно не разделявший его веселья.

Тех, кто только недавно был за шаг от смерти и смог побороть ее и взойти на самую высокую вершину в мире, охватывает эйфория. Это достижение всей жизни, реализация самой прекрасной мечты. Но для Марко, это был лишь первый шаг к мечте, а вершина не более, чем очередное препятствие. Его цель – первый спуск по Хорнбейну с перепадом высот 3000 метров. В эти прекрасные моменты снизу начали подниматься облака. Шерпы начали говорить Марко о портящейся погоде, как и час до этого. Они уговаривали Марко не стартовать. Но все, над что он делал прошедшие полтора года вело к этому спуску, ведь больше у него могло не быть такого шанса. В 15-00 Марко заменил кислородный балон на новый и начал пристегиваться. Фурба помог ему надеть рюкзак, в котором кроме балона с кислородом была страховка и трехлитровая фляга воды. Учитывая тот факт, что Марко собирается совершить один из самых опасных спусков в истории, рюкзак был почти пуст, но того минимума должно было хватить если все пойдет по плану.

"Будь осторожен, Марко", напутствовал его Фурба.

"Окей, Фурба. Увидимся завтра."

Марко стартовал по самому высокогорному целяку в мире, сделал несколько поворотов и задержался на хребте, ожидая, когда шерпы приготовятся к съемке. Он тяжело дышал, устав от спуска с рюкзаком на высоте 8800 метров после изнурительного двенадцати часового восхождения. Он пропустил их вперед, сказал, чтобы следили за страховкой и потом эффектно поскользил в направлении кулуара Хорнбейн. Он плыл в облаках и в 15-15 шерпы увидели, как Марко исчезает в магической горной пелене.

Шерпы не стали терять времени и начали спуск. Когда они собирали снаряжение в Лагере 3, кто-то посмотрел на Северную Седловину, расположенную на 1300 метров ниже них и к своему удивлению увидел стоящего человека, который спустя мгновение начал скользить вниз по горе. Но как это могло произойти? Опытные шерпы были уверены на 100%, что кроме них в горах больше никого нет, но они видели это мистическое видение. Когда они прибыли к Северной Седловине в то место где они видели мистическую фигуру, там не было следов сноуборда. В этот момент они поняли что Марко мертв.

Послесловие

Служба по Марко прошла в Базовом Лагере Эвереста, почти месяц спустя. На ней присутствовали семья Марко, его девушка Стефани, друзья Саймон Фавье, Рене Роберт, Рассел Брайс, Лудо Колле и необычайно много шерпов. Служба получилась очень эмоциональной. Низко над собравшимися висели облака, отражая настроение людей, приехавших почтить память Марко. Но когда монотонное чтение буддиских манахов начало затихать, облака поднялись и появилась вершина, где даже спустя месяц были видны следы Марко, на 3800 метров выше них.

Тело Марко не нашли, равно как и никаких следов ниже следов спуска с вершины. Никто не знает, что произошло с ним. По одной версии, когда Марко в траверсе пересекал вершину Северного Склона к кулуару его настигла лавина, скинула со скал и похоронила внизу. По другой теории он сорвал кант и упал в километровую расщелину у подножия склона. Но есть и другие, например сестра Марко Шути, которая уверена, что Марко живет где-нибудь в Тибете с пастухами яков, ходит по неисследованным вершинам и катается по новым склонам, в поисках предельного спуска.

Отдельное спасибо Рене Роберту, Расселу Брайсу и Бертранду Делапьерре за их неоценимую помощь в написании этой истории. Отредактировано Куртом Хоем.

Источник: TWS.
Перевод: k0ry.

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